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The Secret Formula

The mad designs of Melitta Baumeister.

Melitta Baumeister is a mad scientist — utterly mad, I tell you! She may be too brilliant for this world, one pictures her working in a top secret bunker on an island in the middle of the ocean, stirring a cauldron here, adjusting a Bunsen burner there, a series of beakers and tubes enmeshed around her, bubbling and whistling and then? A steel door to a vestibule opens, heavy fog pours out, and there you have it: a fashion collection.

Whence these shapes? These wearable sculptures? Biophilic chemical reactions abound. It’s a sci-fi wonderland, dahling, and these are the warriors of female persuasion leading the march into the oh-so wobbly future: the ground feels slippery, truth is obscured, the body is irrelevant and blind behind the mask of its ballooning armor. The designer’s signature shape is the squiggly line — how delightful, how shaky, how apt! Where is she hiding the secret formula, dahling? What do they have beneath their spacious robes, these beguiling women? A formula for their own creation? For their demise? How to make a garden grow? Curiouser and curiouser, dahling, I must say.

All images courtesy of Melitta Baumeister, SS 2023.

This article appeared in our 'Fame' issue, available in the shop!


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